Thursday, August 19, 2010

The delis of Riverside Avondale

Yesterday, for lunch, I had a tabbouleh rider and a cherry limeade at a deli down the street.  Phil had a steak-in-a-sack.  If you live in Jacksonville, you know what I’m talking about.  But if you’ve never been to northeast Florida, you’re probably reading this with a blank stare.  What’s a “rider”?  Steak-in-a-sack?

In my research on Jacksonville’s cuisine, oftentimes the “rider” sandwich enters the conversation on what could be considered our city’s signature dish.  I’ll admit to being confused by the terminology when I moved here in December.  Until I learned that a “rider” is simply a sandwich where the fillings are stuffed into a pita pocket.  
Camel Rider at The Sheik
What does a “rider” have to do with a pita pocket sandwich, you ask?  I wondered the same.  A little investigative digging turned up some info.  Turns out the term derives from the infamous local “camel rider” sandwich.  Eek!  Camel rider?  Isn’t that an ethnic slur?  Nope.  According to this article and this article, the term was coined back in 1965 by Tarzan Akel, the Middle Eastern owner of Jacksonville’s The Sheik sandwich shops (other local establishments – ie, Goal Poast Sandwich Shop – claim they were the first to offer the camel rider, but I’ve only found documented evidence for The Sheik’s claim).  At The Sheik, a camel rider was – and still is – a pita pocket stuffed with ham, salami, bologna, cheese, lettuce, tomato, mayo, onions, and dressing.  Today Jacksonville’s delis use the word “rider” to denote any sandwich made using a pita pocket.  So you’ll see veggie riders and tabbouleh riders and yes, camel riders served for lunch all over town.  And steak-in-a-sack?  Well, now you can figure that one out on your own.
The Sheik's steak-in-a-sack
I also learned that, surprisingly, Jacksonville has among the largest Arab Middle Eastern communities on the East Coast.  Many of our neighbors are immigrants and descendents of immigrants who began settling here at the end of the nineteenth century.  Some of the newcomers opened grocery stores, which turned into sandwich shops that sold pita sandwiches, which grew in popularity among the wider Jacksonville population.  As is the case with every American city, immigrants to Jacksonville played a visible role in shaping our food and our culture.  One of the easiest and best ways to witness their cultural influence, enduring ethnic identity, and level of assimilation is still in delis all over town.  Riders, stuff-in-a-sack, and tabbouleh are now markers of identity not just for the Arab community but also for Jacksonville as a whole.  Whatever our background, we all love these now-common locally-offered deli items.

I don’t want you to think that Jacksonville’s delis feel like ethnic restaurants in décor or overall menu offerings.  Really, if you didn’t know the immigration history of Jacksonville, you probably wouldn’t notice the Middle Eastern influence at all.  Our delis seamlessly blend one-time foreign ingredients with items of “mainstream” local character, like paintings of Jacksonville and elements of Jaguars pride.  Not to mention the standard sandwich offerings, ubiquitous vats of sweet tea, and cherry limeade stations at most of these delis.  This makes our delis very particularly Jacksonvillian institutions that form one of the most unique aspects of our local food culture.  I hope this tour of Riverside Avondale’s delis encourages you to pop in to one for lunch this week, or to make a visit if you’re ever passing through!

Riverside’s Whiteway Deli has one of the most Middle Eastern-influenced menus in the neighborhood, but there’s no mistaking that this eatery is 100% pure Jacksonville.  It’s been a bastion of local color since 1927, when the Ramallah-born father of current owner Sam Salem opened a café in Whiteway Corner (the deli recently moved to a newer, bigger, brighter spot on King Street).  The names of many sandwiches – most of which are made with pita pockets – are influenced by local politicians and other local icons.  Jacksonville pride is displayed in the form of some fine paintings of the Park and King district and other areas of our city.

Whiteway is essentially divided into two rooms: the room where you order and pay, and the room where you sit and eat.  The order/pay room is the first one you'll walk into.  The menu consists of a mishmash of loose papers posted up on the wall.  Whiteway gets creative with the names and fillings of their sandwiches (how about the Dr. Millan, chicken tenders, mozzarella, tabbouleh, onions, banana peppers, and ranch dressing in a low-carb wrap?).  There's a lot of hummus, tabouli, and feta floating around in the descriptions.  There are regular sandwiches, too, with all the usual cold cut options and a cubano thrown in for good measure, plus a few salad choices.  Side orders are available by the cup, pint, or 1/2 pint: potato, macaroni, and pasta salads, baked beans, coleslaw, tabbouleh.  You can see a lot of these dishes in a glass case and when I went there were house-made brownies and baklava lined up on top of the case.

So, you place your order and you can either pay then or wait until you're done eating.  Then you find a table and one of the nice ladies working behind the counter will bring your lunch to you.   When I went for lunch there was a good mix of people dining at Whiteway: families, groups of young girls, men eating alone with their noses in newspapers, business folks.  

I got the Late Bloomer’s Special: turkey, bacon, tabbouleh, avocado spread, banana peppers, and provolone in a toasted pita.  Such a unique combination.  It was fresh and really just downright delicious.  I added a few sprinkles of Louisiana hot sauce that was on the table to spice it up even more than the spice provided by the banana peppers.  The pita sandwich came with a crisp pickle.  

Don’t miss the archive of candid customer photos near the cash register.  If you look closely, you’ll see the “hidden” camera behind the counter.  Owner Sam can operate the camera remotely, with the push of a button – you’ll never even know he captured your image for posterity.  He’s essentially documented Whiteway’s customers for the past 30-some years, and the photos fill boxes and boxes (labeled by year) that you can browse through.  1237 King St, Jacksonville.  (904) 389-0355.
Whiteway Delicatessen on Urbanspoon

Pinegrove is another uniquely Jacksonville market and deli located on Pinegrove Ave in Avondale.   This little place has a definite old-school feel, and the deli’s website claims it has been a neighborhood icon for over 60 years.  It's in a tiny building in an otherwise residential neighborhood, and both the exterior and interior are no-frills.  Who needs frills when you can get some of Jacksonville's best sandwiches, burgers, and fresh meat here?

Walk into Pinegrove and the counter where you place your order and pay is to the right.  In front of you is the deli counter with lots of different kinds of meats and cheeses and cold salads.  As far as fresh meats go, there were pork chops, chicken breasts, coiled sausages, ground beef, and steaks when I visited.  The entire wall along the left is taken up by fridges full of all sorts of beverages, including a case full of beer.  There are some bottles of wine lined up near the deli counter.  In the corner to your immediate left is the "market" part of Pinegrove.  You'll find a random assortment of pickles and spices and Spam and BBQ sauces and charcoal and other sundries here.

I had heard excellent things about Pinegrove’s burgers and cubanos.  So that’s what my friend and I ordered when we visited, and the guy working the counter said we made good choices.  I didn’t see many sandwiches stuffed into pitas or served with tabbouleh or other Middle Eastern-inspired ingredients on the regular menu, so I thought Pinegrove may fall outside this sphere of influence.  But after we placed our order I noticed a separate menu that was laminated and taped to the counter.  Here were the clues I was looking for!  This menu listed epic-sounding sandwiches like Da Fritz (grilled pita with pastrami, turkey, provolone, and tabbouleh) that aren't on the regular menu.  I haven’t had a chance to return for one of these but from the looks of the photo and description of Da Fritz over here on Whacksonville, I don’t think I’ll be disappointed. 

The burger and cubano were FOR SURE some of the best I've had in Jacksonville.  Dear me.  The cubano was chock full of meltingly tender pork that was clearly roasted in-house, along with ham, pickles, and mustard.  We got a half size sandwich and it was plenty for one hungry person.  

And the burger.  Wow.  What a burger.  Cooked to a perfect, juicy medium... moist and complex and thick... with real toppings like ripe tomatoes and aged cheddar and onions and pickles and leaf lettuce.  Is this the best burger in town?

I went to Pinegrove at 1:15 and three of the four tables were taken.  I bet this place can get pretty packed during prime time lunch hour so you might want to consider phoning in your order and taking it to go.  It's local gourmet without any stuffiness or pretention.  1511 Pinegrove Place, Jacksonville.  (904) 389-8655.
Pinegrove Deli on Urbanspoon

I’d driven and walked by Gina’s Deli in Five Points many, many times, thinking it didn’t look like much.  But then I visited for lunch and realized what a local treasure this place is.   

Gina’s has a way bigger interior than it appears from the street.  The eatery stretches back quite a bit and has ample seating.  It's just what a deli should be - simply decorated, no frills, casual.  Except, that is, for two very notable items of décor that display just how well Gina’s straddles the line between its Middle Eastern heritage and its pride in being located in Jacksonville.  On the wall behind the condiments station is an eighties-inspired spray-painted mural that reads, Gina's Welcomes Jaguar Fans.  There's an image of a vicious crouching jaguar poised in front of the Jax skyline.  When the friendly owner saw me taking a photo of the room and the mural she came over to my table and sat down next to me to talk to me about the deli, which has been in Riverside for fifteen years.  According to her, the mural was painted by a loyal customer and is a real favorite among customers.  This artwork is right behind the drinks station, so it frames the big vat of sweet tea and the cherry limeade assembly line… two other unmistakable indications that you’re in Northeast Florida.

The owner and her family hail from Palestine, and she proudly showed me the other notable item of décor in the deli: colorful and intricate hand-stitched tapestries hanging on the walls.  The owner herself made them and she said they are traditional in her home country.  

On to the food.  The menu is listed on a board above a display case bursting with fresh salads and Middle Eastern goodies.  The owner proudly proclaimed that she and her staff make every item from scratch every morning, and I really could taste the freshness in the items I tried.  I ordered a kibbeh and tabbouleh rider and a side of potato salad.  The tabbouleh and pita made this rider one of the best I've had so far in Jax.  The pita was thick, warm, and chewy and generously stuffed to the brim with hot kibbeh and fresh, lemony tabbouleh.  The tabbouleh was where the freshness of the meal really shined, with its grassy parsley, hearty bulgur, crunchy squares of cucumber, ripe tomato, and hint of mint.  

This was a big, heavy sandwich.  It was really unnecessary to order a side of potato salad, but I'm glad I did.  Gina's somehow managed to keep the salad really fresh-tasting and light while at the same time loading up on the creamy mayo.  

The prices at Gina's are extremely reasonable for the amount of food you get.  I ended up taking 3/4 of the potato salad home and ate it for lunch the next day.  The deli also serves breakfast - a sign in the front advertises their Breakfast Special - two eggs and bacon served with grits and toast for $3.99.  At these prices, you have no excuse if you don't go to Gina's, and often 818 Post Street, Jacksonville.  (904) 353-9903.
Gina's Delicatessen on Urbanspoon

Michael's Deli is another excellent lunch-only deli in Riverside.  The eatery mainly offers classic sandwiches made with Boar's Head products, plus salads and soups.  There are a few Middle Eastern options available, and you can choose to have your sandwich made on a number of different breads or have the fillings stuffed into a pita pocket.  

Phil got the steak-in-a-sack the last time we lunched here.  This was my first time eating something-in-a-sack, and it made me giggle when he ordered it.  But really, it was nothing to giggle about – it was delicious!  A pita pocket overflowing with substantial slices of juicy steak and sautéed onions with a good amount of mayo thrown in.  

I had the reuben on rye.  Not the best I've ever had - the bread was a bit soggy even though I would have liked more Russian dressing - but it was perfectly acceptable, and quite affordable.  We shared an order of fries.    

Even though the deli was crowded - we snagged the last available table when we arrived around 12:45 - our sandwiches and fries were made quickly and delivered to our table by a very friendly lady.  I liked the hustle and bustle about the place.  And just check out the awesome Jags paintings on the wall!

I'm guessing Michael's gets a lot of business from workers at the nearby hospital, but it's a bustling, quick option for anyone looking for lunchtime deli fare in an unmistakably Jacksonville setting.  1639 Barrs Street, Jacksonville.  (904) 384-3909.
Michael's Deli on Urbanspoon

Goal Post Sandwich Shop is a classic deli located in a plaza on Herschel Street in Avondale.  From the outside, it looks like this eatery has been around for a long time.  Indeed, it has.  According to the deli’s Facebook page, it’s been family-owned and -operated since 1979.

You’re greeted by someone the second you enter Goal Post.  I had heard that THE thing to order here is the tabbouleh rider.  And, wouldn’t you know it, as I was eyeing the Goal Post T-shirts I noticed that they proudly proclaim the eatery to be home of the tabbouleh rider.  So, yeah, I’m guessing it’s a popular menu item. 

The tabbouleh at Goal Post is tart and grassy, and they don’t skimp on it.  They toast the pita pocket with two kinds of cheese inside, so the cheese gets all melty and warm and the pita gets crisp.  They also throw some mayo in there for good measure. 

I’ll be back for another of these sandwiches.  I’ve also heard that Goal Post’s steak-in-a-sack is unique in that it uses cumin-spiced ground beef instead of the more traditional strips of steak.  Let me know if you’ve tried it!  3984 Herschel Street, Jacksonville.  (904) 384-9262. 
Goal Post Sandwich Shop on Urbanspoon

Richard's is an old school deli hidden away on Oak Street just behind Riverside's Five Points 'hood.  I'd never known it existed until I was walking down Oak to find the back entrance to Underbelly... and there it was.  

I say Richard's is old school because it has a certain old timey charm with its green and white checked curtains, fake greenery hung on the walls, and framed articles from Jacksonville newspapers that date back almost twenty years.  Oh, and there is liverwurst and Waldorf salad on the menu!  The eatery is pretty big for a deli and has lots of tables so I didn't in any way feel rushed to get through my lunch.  There are magazine racks near the entrance where you can pick up the Folio or EU and take your time going through them as you munch on your sandwich.

It was a really hot day when I visited so I certainly didn't want anything too heavy or hot.  I got the tabbouleh rider.  The tabbouleh wasn’t as fresh as it is in some of the other delis I’ve tried, but the pita stood out as being thick and chewy and fresh.  I tried to ignore the slice of cheap American cheese in the rider… and I thought the prices were a little steep for the size of the sandwich.

You could also go for a regular deli sandwich or a chef salad.  Check out the white board near the cash register for daily specials on sandwiches, soups, and desserts.  This would be a great spot for lunch if you work in the area, especially because my sandwich was ready literally within thirty seconds after I paid.  You order and pay at the register and they'll have it ready for you by the time you get to the end of counter.

You won’t find friendlier folks working at any other deli in Jacksonville.  The lady at the register complimented me on my outfit the second I walked in and the rest of the ladies behind the counter were all smiles.  Richard's had a good flow of lunch clientele when I was there, and many of them seemed to be regulars.  There were different sorts of folks eating here - moms with sons, dads with daughters, business folks, blue collar guys, and a number of older folks eating alone.  As they walked in the door, customers were greeted with, "Find a parking space today?" and as they left, "See you tomorrow!"  1030 Oak Street, Jacksonville.  (904) 358-3120.
Richard's Sandwich Shoppe on Urbanspoon

Gibbs is a shiny, airy, light-filled, newish NY-style deli in Riverside.  It's a big space, with plenty of indoor seating and a really nice, clean, and well-maintained outdoor eating area complete with a bubbling fountain and umbrella-topped tables.  

In my option, NY-style delis shouldn't be this squeaky clean and bright and modern.  It didn't feel like NY at all.  It didn’t really feel like Jacksonville, either.  Gibb’s doesn’t sit well next to all the other Riverside Avondale delis that have loads of history and heaps of local color. 

I suppose I could ignore this lack of sense of place if the sandwiches were killer.  Erm.  When I went, I had the BLT special - 8" BLT, a fountain drink, and chips for $6 and change.  It was more than enough food for two people, so a really cheap lunch, but even if you're not in the mood to share it's still a good price.   It was an okay sandwich that reminded me a lot of Larry's Giant Subs, especially the bread (we got wheat).  Nothing bad, nothing good.  Shredded iceberg lettuce.  Meh.

Gibb’s uses Boar's Head meats and there are a ton of mayonnaise-based salads (tuna, chicken, egg).  Not many choices for vegetarians, except a garden salad, a Greek salad, and a veggie sub which is just made with the afterthought veggies that are thrown on all the meat-centric sandwiches.  No tabbouleh or hummus or other Middle Eastern items to be found.  Want my advice?  Head a block up Barrs and go to Michael’s instead.  They’re both delis that probably cater to hospital workers, but Michael’s feels more authentic and puts a lot more creativity into their sandwiches.  2545 Riverside Avenue, Jacksonville. (904) 527-8358. 
Gibbs N.Y. Style Subs and Salads on Urbanspoon

Johnny’s Deli is located on Riverside Ave between Five Points and downtown.  The deli provides lunch for the multitude of nearby office workers.  At 12:30 when I visited, the line was snaking through the dining area all the way to the door.  I thought we'd just arrived at a bad time, but the line continued to snake out the door the whole time we were there, so I guess lunch time is a busy time at Johnny's.  The line moved relatively quickly, though.  

Johnny's has pretty standard deli offerings, and you can request that the standard sandwiches to be stuffed into a pita.   You place your order with the guy making your food and you can watch everything he does - I like that.  The food prep area is very clean but I wasn't impressed by the quality of the ingredients.  They were pulling shredded lettuce out of a bag and once we got our sandwiches, we didn't think the bread was very good.  It was spongy and tasted kind of stale.  Fries were the crinkle frozen guys - not that big of a deal, I guess.  The chicken in my Greek chicken pita wrap was dry, and it was pretty unwieldy overall.  

My husband liked the Johnny's special sub with roast beef and melted provolone, but again, the bread didn't knock our socks off.  Sandwiches and subs and wraps come with a side of egg salad, pasta salad, potato salad, or chips.  A lot of people seemed to be ordering the egg salad, so perhaps it's a specialty here?  If you want fries or a salad, you'll pay a couple bucks extra.

Johnny's has some booths that seat four hefty-sized people, plus some smaller two-tops scattered about, but I definitely wouldn't want to sit at any of the tables in the middle of the deli cuz people waiting in line would be hovering around you and drooling over your food the whole time you ate.  We got lucky with a table by the window.  

Not sure I'll go back to Johnny's when there are so many other, tastier delis in Riverside.  474 Riverside Avenue, Jacksonville. (904) 356-8055.
Johnny's Deli & Grille on Urbanspoon

The Sheik – where it all started!  I didn’t try the camel rider at this fast food restaurant on Atlantic Blvd until after I’d eaten at all the delis in Riverside Avondale.  After all this research, I felt compelled to try the Camel Rider at its source!

Well, The Sheik has retained very few Middle Eastern influences – you’ve got the name of the joint, and you’ve got some sandwiches served in pita pockets.  And that’s that.  Like I said, it’s a fast food joint, complete with a drive-through.   Fast and cheap.  Burgers and subs and lots of options for breakfast.  My Camel Rider was okay (see photo at beginning of post).  Ham, salami, bologna, cheese, lettuce, tomato, mayo, onions, and dressing shoved into a pita pocket.  This isn’t a sandwich made with high quality ingredients, so just know what to expect.  Cold, hard, flavorless tomato slices; bagged shredded lettuce; cheap cold cuts; government-issue cheese.

My husband got a Steak-in-a-Sack, his go-to Sheik dish (photo’s also up there).  I liked this sandwich WAY better than the Camel Rider.  The meat was cooked on a griddle with onions and the sandwich was served hot and steamy.  This is what I’d order if I ever return to The Sheik.  One of us ordered a combo so we could share a little paper package of fries.  Ask for seasoning and they’ll shake some seasoned salt over them.

Glad I finally tried this little slice of Jax, but the riders served at the delis of Riverside Avondale blow this place outta the water.  Thanks for dreaming up the “rider,” though, Mr. Akel!  Jacksonville thanks you!  9720 Atlantic Boulevard, Jacksonville. (904) 721-2660. 
Sheik on Urbanspoon

Thursday, August 12, 2010

Slow Food First Coast Snail of Approval: Jacksonville

There are a lot of buzz words floating around the food world these days.  Local… artisanal… organic… sustainable… authentic… free-range… low carbon footprint… cage-free… GMO-free… jeesh!  It can certainly be exhausting to keep up with all of them, and it’s difficult to pinpoint the food purveyors, producers, and restaurants that espouse these ideals.

Lucky for us, we have Slow Food to help us sort it all out.  Slow Food seeks to change the way we produce and consume food by reconnecting us with the people, traditions, plants, animals, fertile soils and waters that produce our food.  I learned about the Slow Food organization during my gastronomy studies but was first alerted to the First Coast chapter this spring at a farm-to-table event hosted by Restaurant Orsay.  At the event, Orsay was awarded the Slow Food First Coast Snail of Approval in recognition of their contributions to the quality, authenticity and sustainability of the food supply of the First Coast region of Florida. 

Orsay thus joined ranks with a number of other Jacksonville food businesses that have also been recognized by Slow Food First Coast:  The French Pantry, 13 Gypsies, Bold City Brewery, Native Sun Natural Foods Market, Bold Bean Coffee Roasters, Bakery Moderne, Beaches Green Market, Mandarin Farmers Market, and Riverside Arts Market.

Read on for my experiences with each of these Snail of Approval culinary havens (including some photos from Orsay’s farm-to-table dinner at the end of the post).  We should all make a point to patronize these businesses and support their contributions to the sustainability, quality, and vibrancy of our local food system!

Jacksonville’s best artisanal breads are baked fresh every day at this bakery-cum-eatery surprisingly located in an industrial complex on Powers Ave.  For lunch Monday through Friday, The French Pantry’s eatery serves mouthwatering sandwiches and bruschetta made using their exquisite, crusty breads. 

I recently visited with a couple girlfriends and we ordered three items to share.  They were all delicious and we couldn't decide which our favorite was.  Was it the substantially-portioned shrimp, artichoke, and goat cheese bruschetta that came with a salad?  

Was it the Parisienne French dip with roast beef, brie, mustard, tomato and mayo, served with a rich au jus?  

Or the chicken panino with buffalo mozzarella, fontina, prosciutto, and sundried tomato mayo?  A lot of thought went into these dishes, and all three were constructed of the highest quality ingredients. 

The French Pantry is a smart place.  You check out the menu as you're waiting in line.  It's written on a chalkboard, right there, as soon as you walk in the door.  Of course you're starving, so everything sounds impossibly tasty.  

Then!  They hit you with the dessert display before you even have a chance to order your sandwich!  Clever!  It was impossible for my gals to pass up getting a dessert to go.  There are also bags of rolls in this same display and some baguettes and thick loaves of bread with pizza-like toppings displayed near the cash register.  I picked up some rosemary rolls for later and my gals got a slice of berry cake and a thick slab of marjolaine.  

The line was out the door when I arrived at 12:30 on a Thursday, and it remained that way until I left over an hour later.  So really, if you have a job with a standard one hour lunch break, you’ll probably want to choose somewhere else for your midday meal.  I looked around the dining room at one point and noticed there weren't many folks in business attire.  Luckily The French Pantry’s breads are available at Jacksonville’s best restaurants and cafes, so even 9-to-5ers can enjoy their brand of bread perfection!  6301 Powers Ave, Jacksonville, FL.  (904) 730-8696.
French Pantry on Urbanspoon

13 Gypsies is another of my very favorite restaurants here in Jacksonville.  I wrote a post dedicated to this miniscule bistro here, and other than Orsay, it’s the restaurant I most often frequent. Slow Food First Coast points out that Chef Howard Kirk personally shops for local produce to highlight the season’s best ingredients.  You can witness this commitment to diversity and seasonality in Chef Howard’s ever-changing daily specials and new menu items.  My favorite dish at 13 Gypsies, the risotto, constantly acts as a rich backdrop to all manner of seasonally appropriate ingredients.

Last week I had the pleasure of trying out a few new menu items.  They’re not yet on the regular menu, but watch for them on the specials board.  The salpicon de mariscos (cold seafood salad) is the quintessential summer dish.  Chilled scallops, octopus, and shrimp tossed with peppers and onions in a lemony vinaigrette.

The hangar steak just may be one of my new favorite dishes at 13 Gypsies.  I adore this flavorful and tender cut of beef, and Chef sears it perfectly and serves it with a red pepper sauce.

I can’t neglect to mention a few of my old favorites (clockwise, from top left): scallops remini, gravlax (one of the ever-rotating daily specials), cod loin mariscana, shrimp piri-piri, and the bruschetta del dia (crabcake during my most recent visit).

I’m clearly not the only one who loves 13 Gypsies.  You’re living under a rock if you didn’t know the restaurant was featured on an episode of Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives this year.  I was lucky to attend the taping and even got some schmooze time with Guy. 

Do yourself a favor and make a reservation at 13 Gypsies if you haven’t been in awhile!  887 Stockton Street, Jacksonville. (904) 389-0330

Bold City Brewery is currently the only craft brewery in Jacksonville that sells its beers in bars and restaurants up and down the First Coast.  You’ve surely had their brews when out on the town, but have you visited their taproom in Riverside?  The brewery and taproom is a bit hidden in a little complex of industrial warehouses on Rosselle Street.   The brewery is off to the left, and that's where Jolly Mon Catering grills up burgers and wings and serves pulled pork sandwiches with coleslaw and baked beans for ridiculously low prices ($5 will fill you up for dinner).  Bold City gives Saturday tours of the brewery - they take about a half hour.

The door on the right leads to the taproom.  It's small and cozy, with  a bar and plenty of tables.  Bold City is family-owned and you’ll likely be waited on by Mom and Sister (of owner/operator Brian Miller)... really friendly ladies who seem proud of the success of the brewery.  You can order tall beers or pints, or a sampler of all of the available beers if it’s your first time visiting the brewery.  Fancy a growler?  Bold City will fill ‘em up for you.  The taproom seems pretty subdued, and there’s often an older crowd here.    

And, much of the time, there are kids there.  Like, babies or kids under twelve hanging out with their families.  So watch your language, okay?  Little kids or big kids like me can choose from an assortment of games like Connect Four or Fact or Crap.  Fun.  

Jacksonville is lucky to have its very own microbrewery, and Bold City has kicked off what’s being called a “brewing district” in the King Street area.  Intuition Ale Works will be opening this fall (much more on that to come!) and Just Brew It!, our city’s only homebrew shop, just moved in next door.  Support your local brewery!  2670-7 Rosselle Street, Jacksonville, FL (904)379-6551
Bold City Brewery on Urbanspoon

My attempt at visiting Native Sun Natural Foods Market was unsuccessful (closed on Sunday – bah!).  However I did get this nice little shot of the outside of the market.  Helpful?  Not really.

I have heard nothing but great things about the quality of the organic produce and proteins here, and many folks rave about the prepared food specials served up at Native Sun.  (Vegetarians rejoice.)  Slow Food First Coast has praised Native Sun’s commitment to using only certified organic products and local, seasonal produce and meats.  All fruits, vegetables, meats and fish are labeled with their place of origin.  Follow them on Twitter @nativesunjax for daily specials.  Will report back as soon as I visit!  11030 Baymeadows Rd & 10000 San Jose Blvd, Jacksonville, FL.

Bold Bean Coffee Roasters is a local company that employs a small-batch, artisanal approach to roasting their product.  Their single origin organic coffees and tasty blends are Fair Trade Certified and the company offers a Coffee Clique where members receive monthly shipments of Bold Bean’s beans.  They also do special locally-inspired blends, like this one created for the crew over at Urban Jacksonville.

You’ll find Bold Bean brewed in restaurants and coffee shops all over town.  It’s served at Bakery Moderne, another holder of the First Coast Snail of Approval badge.  It’s also a key ingredient in Bold City Brewery’s coffee stout.  Look for the Bold Bean Coffee Roasters booth at the Riverside Arts Market and other food purveyors around town.  (904) 855-1181

I was ecstatic when Bakery Moderne opened in Riverside, just a few blocks from my place.  I've always dreamed of that neighborhood bakery that entices me with the aromas of pastries and cakes and sourdough and coffee every time I walk by.  Bakery Moderne occupies a great corner space that’s urban yet comfy at the same time, with high ceilings, exposed brick, and big picture windows. 

The staff is very friendly.  Their French press coffee is really great (they use Bold Bean beans).  So are the petit fours.  The tarts look tempting.  

There's always a daily specials board with lunch offerings.  I’ve heard great things about sandwiches and salads at Bakery Moderne.  My quiche came with a fresh and tasty side salad of mixed greens with vinaigrette, and spinach and cheddar latkes.  

I love going there for a French press coffee, and I’ll continue to test their baguettes and other baked goods.  869 Stockton St, Jacksonville, FL. (904) 389-7117
Bakery Moderne on Urbanspoon

I wrote an extensive post on the farmers markets of Northeast Florida, including the Riverside Arts Market, Mandarin Farmers & Arts Market, and Beaches Green Market.  You can read it here

These local markets have all received recognition from Slow Food First Coast for hosting vendors that sell fresh produce, meats, and prepared foods from local farms and food producers.  The markets are great one-stop-shop places to hit up many local food businesses that are contributing to the quality, authenticity, and sustainability of the food supply of the First Coast; exactly the goal of Slow Food First Coast’s Snail of Approval recognition.

Restaurant Orsay’s farm-to-table event assembled many Snail of Approval-recognized producers and purveyors together for one epic twelve-course meal.  The dinner was the apotheosis of everything I want Jacksonville’s food and dining scene to be… an extraordinary revelation of the potential of our city’s food culture!  I wrote a short piece about the evening here, on the Riverside Avondale Preservation blog.  Hopefully the restaurant collaborates with Slow Food First Coast for another legendary meal.  If they do, you must attend!  

Chef Brian Siebenschuh’s ambitious menu showcased almost thirty local farms and other food producers, including Bold Bean Coffee Roasters, The French Pantry, Five Points Honey, Intuition Ale Works, and Down to Earth Farm.  Chef Brian implemented an ingenious concept by showcasing each ingredient in both its raw and cooked states.  The meal started with Apalachicola oysters: raw, with a mignonette of sweet onion vinagre de Jerez and datil pepper; and roasted, with Berkshire bacon, braised Swiss chard, and Parmigiano-Reggiano. 

Next was spear-shot grey grouper: crudo, with datil-infused oil, heirloom tomato, cucumber and sorrel foam; seared, with glazed spring vegetables and organic extra virgin olive oil.

The third course featured free-range chicken and a farm fresh egg: poached egg on toasted baguette resting on a bed of foraged Oregon morels, braised chicken, and Italian black truffles; buttermilk fried chicken with braised greens, bacon, and sweet corn picked that very day.

Restaurant Orsay’s involvement in the community is another reason they embody Slow Food’s lofty ideals.  After the tragic spill in the Gulf, the restaurant made headlines for their commitment to donating twenty-five cents from every oyster sold to the Gulf Coast Relief Fund.  Orsay also hosts events that are focused on uniting Jacksonville’s food and beverage scene, such as the Aperol-sponsored mixology competition that took place last month.  3630 Park Street, Jacksonville, FL.  (904) 381-0909

I sincerely hope Slow Food First Coast’s Snail of Approval list continues to grow here in Jacksonville.  We can help form a local culinary identity and foster our food culture by patronizing these businesses and nominating new ones that contribute to Slow Food’s goal of revolutionizing the way we produce and consume food.  You can make a nomination here

I’ll soon be publishing a post on Saint Augustine’s Snail of Approval businesses!